Texas barbecue in Kansas City: sacrilege or sensational?
My vote is for the latter—don’t hate me.
The home page for Dunn Deal BBQ in Grandview proudly proclaims they serve “the mouthwatering flavors of Texas BBQ.” But the home page also states, in smaller letters, that they offer a “Texas and Kansas City Style of Que.”
So I asked pitmaster Gerald Dunn: Which is it? Pure Texas or a blending of styles?
“It’s a mixture of both,” Dunn says, adding he has no interest in regional rivalries. “I don’t think you could miss with either. Good food is good food.”
Dunn learned the art of barbecue from his pitmaster grandfather. He hailed from East Texas, close to the Louisiana border, so Dunn says some Cajun influence also found its way into his seasoning.
Dunn started selling his food from a food truck, but before that, he was a barbecue caterer for years. He also participated in regional barbecue competitions, and the array of barbecue trophies and ribbons on display at Dunn Deal are a testament to his extensive experience. He opened Dunn Deal in March of this year.
Dunn Deal serves pork ribs, pulled pork, chicken, turkey and three different varieties of sausage, but Dunn makes no secret that his beef brisket is his pride and joy. And it is exceptional—subtly seasoned and smoked, meltingly tender with a lingering mild pepper heat.
It’s delicious without sauce, but Dunn’s thin, mop-style sauce is worth a try, with just enough tomato and sweetness to balance out the more dominant vinegar and spice flavors.
“I like (the sauce) that way so you can use it for chicken, ribs and beef,” Dunn says. “Sometimes the thicker sauces get in the way of the meat, and I want the meat to be the star of the show. Sauce should just kiss it, compliment it.”
The pulled pork also boasts a subtle smoke flavor but with a more pronounced sweetness. The pork ribs are fall-off-the-bone tender and full-flavored with a dry rub seasoning that supports rather than dominates the meat flavor. The andouille sausage is plump and juicy, with small flakes of red pepper visible. (The other sausage options are standard beef and cheddar-jalapeno.)
Dunn’s wood blend is primarily oak and hickory, with nut or fruit woods thrown in on occasion. Platters are served on white bread with dill pickle slices, a pickled chili pepper and slivers of raw onion. The onion, a Texas-style addition, was a most welcome partner for the sausage.
Grandview is a bit of a drive from the metro’s population centers, but Dunn Deal is worth a trip as long as you keep a couple of caveats in mind: Hours are very limited, and it’s takeout-only—no dining room seating. An outdoor seating area is expected to be ready in spring 2025.
Dunn has lived in KC for more than 30 years and is well-known in jazz circles as the director of entertainment for the American Jazz Museum and the Blue Room club. He’s also a saxophonist and the bandleader of the combo Jazz Disciples.
Running a restaurant on top of all that, even part-time, would be daunting for some. That’s not how Dunn sees it.
“I love going in at four in the morning to get the fire started,” he says. “That time of morning is just magical.”
GO: Dunn Deal BBQ, 506 Main St., Grandview. Open 11 am to 4 pm Fridays and Saturdays.
