I will confess up front that Woodyard Bar-B-Que is a longtime favorite of mine. They’ve been through some changes over the years, essentially morphing to be less of a “joint” and more of a “restaurant.” When they announced a return to their roots late last year (“under old management”), I knew I had to check it out.
So I lifted the Triple P sandwich to my mouth. My gentle grip produced a thin stream of greasy juices down my thumb and wrist and onto my forearm. “Good,” I thought. “Same as it ever was.” The first bite confirmed the good news: Woodyard is what Woodyard always was. As the hand-painted sign out front proudly proclaims, “can a beer $2” is still the drink of choice.
Woodyard has kept a bit of the polish, but it is still essentially a throwback to the roots of Kansas City barbecue. Woodsmoke, meat and spice dominate the flavor spectrum. The menu includes all the classics: brisket, pork, turkey, ham, sausage and baby back pork ribs. The baby backs are leaner and meatier than spare ribs; a four-bone serving on the rib plate meal is a hefty serving of meaty goodness. Except for the burnt ends, meats are served unsauced and lightly seasoned. Sliced meats are lean and moist. Smoked chicken wings and chili topped with burnt ends are also available daily. A creamy-crisp slaw and lightly seasoned shoestring fries are excellent sides.
There’s a nod to more-upscale modern tastes with daily specials (chicken and salmon on a recent visit) and specialty sandwiches, including the Carolina (pulled pork with slaw), a turkey club and the aforementioned Triple P. The latter is about as fancy as Woodyard food gets. It’s a hefty sandwich combining pulled pork, ham and bacon with provolone cheese on a bun. I added a drizzle of their hot barbecue sauce, and the sandwich approached the sublime.
Note: If you can’t handle spice, plan to skip the sauce. Their original sauce has a pronounced kick, with chilies and gritty spices forward, vinegar behind them and sweetness even further back. That sauce dominates both their pit beans and their burnt ends, which are fall-apart tender. The hot version of the sauce is the same base with an extra shot of peppery spice.
You order at the counter, and food is brought to your table. The two-tiered dining area is comfortable and clean, true to the joint’s rough-hewn roots, with wood and sheet metal walls and ceiling. Even the background music is a delightful throwback: classic rock with a smattering of disco.
General manager Oscar Scott, grandson of founder Frank Schloegel III, says the primary move back to their roots was restoring and using the patio smokers in front of the restaurant and restoring their original dry rub recipe. They are also brewing a house beer, Woodyard Ale, and offering live music every Wednesday and occasional Saturdays (3001 Merriam Lane, KCK).
