“A taco without lime is not a taco,” says Fernanda Reyes, owner of Westport’s Taco Naco as she stands in the taqueria’s kitchen. However, setting aside that one rule for the “perfect taco,” the rest of Reyes taco philosophy is quite fluid.
As she gestures to a variety of dried peppers, tortillas of all sizes and types, and marinated meats, she explains that the “Naco” in her restaurant name represents the uniqueness that a wide variety of subcultures bring to the table. Reyes has had to remind people that Mexico itself is made up of 31 states and recognizes 68 distinct indigenous groups. That is why, in Kansas City, Reyes won’t be the chef to diss Midwesterners for adding cheese to tacos or Hindu customers for swapping meat for a potato filling.
Kansas City diners clamor for the chicken al pastor taco and have made it the bestseller across all Taco Naco locations. A heap of lightly sweet marinated chicken al achiote is topped with cilantro aioli and pineapple relish, which are made fresh every day. The vehicle is a corn tortilla from KC’s own James Beard Award-winning Yoli Tortilleria, ready to be topped in hot sauce, dipped in salsa and devoured in a few bites.
But when it comes to Reyes’ perfect taco build, the answer is precise. It needs to be high in salt, fat and acid and served on a nixtamalized corn tortilla.
Her philosophy may be inclusive, but her palate and eye for detail have been expertly honed. Reyes’ experience in the kitchen goes deep, from working in her mother’s restaurant in Santiago Papasquiaro, Mexico, from the age of 10, to a formal education culminating in a master’s degree in both business administration and nutrition.
With her intricate knowledge of Mexican foods, Reyes can detect differences in corn varieties and will always prefer a tortilla made with non-GMO corn that has been nixtamalized, or steeped in an alkaline solution to enhance the flavor and workability of dough and improve the bioavailability of some nutrients. Yoli Tortilleria and Las Marias Tortilleria fit this bill locally. However, for fish tacos, Reyes recommends using a flour tortilla.
Protein is the next step in Reyes’ perfect taco, and her go-to is her own brisket barbacoa. A key step in taco excellence is not being afraid of grease. Reyes adds a spoonful of rich, coppery, well-seasoned grease to her tortilla and brisket on the griddle. For this perfect taco, a thin layer of cheese is melted onto the tortilla, too.
Once the tortilla is warmed and the cheese is melted, it’s moved to a paper-lined tray. This is an important step, as Reyes believes that tacos are best eaten fresh, whether that means standing on a sidewalk next to a street vendor or dining in at a restaurant.
To complement the umami depth of the brisket and cheese, Reyes tops it with chipotle aioli, pickled onions, and cilantro. Suddenly, it has become a feast for the eyes. But to complete the sensory experience and balance the fattiness, Reyes adds a squeeze of lime, a sprinkle of salt and an unshy portion of hot sauce. A cup of fresh tomatillo salsa is an ideal match for these flavors, and it happens to be one of the easiest salsa varieties to make.
Last but not least, Reyes points out that the radish and cucumber served on the side are not decorative or arbitrary but a thoughtful addition for cleansing the palate.
Does every taco require this level of effort and additions? No. In fact, at Taco Naco, any taco can be served “a la Mexicana,” where only onion and cilantro accompany the protein. But we’re going for perfection here, and Reyes’ taco particulars are worth the effort.
